Moose Jaw to Buffalo Pond
On leaving Moose Jaw I headed slightly east before going directly north on the 301, this road goes parallel to the road I entered the town buy but is gravel. I followed this until I reached Buffalo Pond Provincial Park located in a valley next to a lake. I had every intention of just passing through but there was scenery other than farm land so I decided to set up camp for the night. I had a paddle in the lake and washed down my bike before spending a very pleasant evening chatting to some fellow campers who were a couple of pitch down from mine, they handed on a bit of knowledge on what’s coming up, wildlife around the area (one of them was a biologist and twitched (called birders over here apparently)) and some Canadian history.
Pelican at Buffalo Pond
Buffalo Pond to Regina
After cooking up some porridge and breaking camp I followed the valley path as far as I could, the path was a mix of gravel (tough to cycle on) and grass (even tougher to cycle on) for about 20km where I left the park and headed back on to gravel and dirt roads towards Regina. Due to how flat the land being so flat I could see the city for miles before I got the industrial areas at the edge of town. After a few minutes I passed these and found a route to the river which, as seems the case with most cities, I was able to follow for a few miles to the city centre and the youth hostel I was to stay at for a couple of nights. The hostel was slightly run down compared to the other Hostelling International hostels I have stayed and quieter but as ever the staff were amazing and there were people to talk to. After a shower I went for a wander into the Down Town area and found a “traditional English pub” to eat at, it wasn’t very good… I should know better by now than to go to that kinda place! Then back to the hostel for some much-needed sleep.
Its not all gravel grinding!
Today I wandered round Regina, first exploring the bike shops… again its Sunday so not many were open and they didn’t have the cassette that I was looking for, seems that the “easy to get£ components that I had built the bike round aren’t always that easy to get, also it was bad timing being a Sunday. After this I had a wander around Wascana Park (the name “Wascana” is derived from the Cree word Oscana meaning “pile of bones” in reference to the plains bison bones scattered around Wascana Creek before the area was populated by non-indigenous people). The lake is quite pretty with a number of islands and some stunning views over the impressive Legislative Building, possibly the nicest building I have seen so far in Canada. After this I headed back and got supplies for dinner (quinoa with lemon and chilli halloumi yum!) and pack and prep for the next days ride.
Legislative Building through a waterfall
Regina to Fort Qu’ Appelle
From Regina I was heading in a general north western direction to Fort Qu’ Appelle. I followed route one out of town, this was slightly dodgy as there were a lot of roadworks going on meaning the road was narrow and more lorries. I followed this to White City, which seemed to be a service station, and had a Subway for early lunch. After about another 30mins I left route 1 (after having to cross 3 lanes of main road moving at 100kph, thankfully Canadian roads are quiet!) and joined route 10 a few hours of flat Saskatchewan prairie I dropped down into another of the almost hidden valleys and into Fort Qu’ Appelle and headed to the campground and set up the tent. I headed into town to explore and visit the museum to learn a bit about the town, there wasn’t much to learn apart from the fact that it had been set up by the Hudson Bay Company as a trading post and fort and the museum had the second oldest building in Saskatchewan. That night I was treated to one of the most amazing sunsets over Echo Lake that I have ever seen.
Fort Qu’ Appelle to Lemberg
I decided I wanted something other than porridge for breakfast and headed for my first Tim Hortons (aka Timmies), to be honest they aren’t anything to write home about but Canadians make a big deal about them so…!
Apparently this is quite Canadian!
I decided to follow the pretty route (read long and hard!) down the valley of gravel paths with headwinds, it was hard going and it detracted from the beauty of the place the head winds were brutal. A storm had been forecast for about 4pm so I couldn’t hang around which was a shame as at about 1pm a local farmer drove out to offer me lunch which I unfortunately had to turn down due to worrying about the storm. About an 10 mins later and the owner of the museum I had visited yesterday drove up to say “hi” after he had noticed my tracks at the turning and wanted to check how I was getting on.
A few hours more gravel grinding I got to the small town of Lemberg where I got a hotel room to shelter from the potential storm that had yet to appear. As ever it was a quick shower before heading out to look at the town and find some food…. Everything was closed so I had a pizza at the hotel bar and chatted to some “quirky” locals, as I was finishing dinner the lady behind the bar told me that I had been invited around the house of another of the servers to say “hi” as they were English too, so I was walked over and introduced to Tammie, Neil and family. I had a lovely evening with them and am very grateful for their hospitality and the nicest cup of tea I have had this side of the pond! O and the promised storm hadn’t appeared.
Lemberg to Melville
I woke up to rain… and nearly didn’t bother getting out of bed but I have miles that I need to make so even if its only a short day I had to get moving. I popped into the local coop to pick up supplies for the day and then hit the road, I followed the main roads east and north in the rain and brutal winds; I was also tired from the day before and knew that I wasn’t going to be having a big day so just toughed it out to the next town, Melville where I stayed at a cheap motel and hid from the rain, I was soaked through and cold… my waterproof jacket had wetted out and the temperature had dropped to about 15oc with the wind it had got into my bones.
Melville to Yorkton
I struggled to get out of bed again today and was slow getting going… especially as I stopped at Timmies for breakfast again. I think taking pity on me the staff gave me a voucher for a free coffee next time I stop at one. The countryside is slightly hillier today and there seems to be more trees, it vaguely reminds me of Cheshire but flatter. I only 45km; all of which in pretty much a straight line and the wind had dropped; I couldn’t help but try and push the pace, I covered the distance in 2hrs. The scenery is the same until I got to Yorkton. I have to say I was majorly underwhelmed by the city on entering the first thing you see is the Casino in a rather tacky first nation style, the main area of the town is surrounding Broad Street, a three-lane highway right through the middle…. I will stay here a few days to recover and see if I can get my new cassette… Wish me luck!!!
Some days be like…